A Food Lover's Guide to Bhutanese Cuisine

Bhutanese cuisine will challenge and delight in equal measure. If you have a low tolerance for chili, consider this fair warning — chilies are not a condiment in Bhutan, they are a vegetable, and they appear in almost every dish. But approach the food with an open mind, and you will discover a cuisine of remarkable depth and comfort.

Ema Datshi is the undisputed national dish. Whole green or red chilies are simmered with local cheese (datshi) in a rich, slightly oily stew. It is served with everything, eaten at every meal, and cherished by every Bhutanese. The local cheese has a tangy, slightly fermented quality quite different from Western varieties. Variations include Kewa Datshi (potatoes and cheese) and Shamu Datshi (mushrooms and cheese).

Red rice is the staple grain of Bhutan, cultivated in the terraced fields of Punakha and Bumthang. Unlike white rice, it has a nutty, earthy flavor and a slightly chewy texture. It is served at every meal alongside soups, stews, and sautéed greens. The combination of red rice with ema datshi is one of the most satisfying meals you will eat anywhere in Asia.

Momos — steamed dumplings filled with pork, beef, or cheese and vegetables — are ubiquitous street food. They are typically served with a fiery tomato-chili dipping sauce called Ezay. Another street staple is Jasha Maru, a spicy minced chicken dish with tomatoes and chilies, often served over rice.

Butter tea (suja) deserves its own introduction. Made by churning strong black tea with yak butter and salt, it tastes nothing like conventional tea. It is savory, rich, and warming — perfectly suited to the cold mountain air. Many visitors find it an acquired taste, but locals drink it throughout the day. If you prefer something familiar, Bhutanese sweet tea (a milky chai) is widely available and delicious.